Although the drive from Marfa to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park seemed flat, desolate, and long, we actually climbed to an elevation of 5260′ above sea level. Being 5000 times higher than the elevation of Charleston, and with our heads feeling loopy, our bodies exhausted and out of breath, we took an easy day to explore the lower reaches of the park. McKittrick Canyon, the park’s signature hike, meaning: easy, scenic, close to water, and in the relative shade, was a great introduction, and while we didn’t attempt to tackle the ridge beyond (as suggested by our very friendly and enthusiastic campground neighbor from Maryland, with his troupe of sixty-something retired friends, all avid and lifelong hikers), we certainly felt good about our first hike back in the National Park Service’s jurisdiction. Mostly we were trying to ease ourselves into the higher elevation, but along the trail, we found what we think were cougar paw prints (later confirmed by the reading material provided at the trailhead), the vacant cabins of the generous ranchers who donated their land to become this national park, and the many faces of desert at a variety of elevations.
.
Back in camp, our other neighbors, hailing from Ohio, invited us to join them for a drink, and many stories of travel, family, marriage, and life. They were great, their advice priceless, but their bourbon, well, it was a slightly less than cordial friend, and it set us up for what happened the following day… Our plan to hike to the top of Texas, Guadalupe Peak, went on as planned, only we ran into a few unexpected, and some expected complications that made the hike a lot harder that 8.5 miles and 3500 feet of elevation gain.
.
Number One: ALCOHOL IS NOT YOUR FRIEND AT 5260′ FEET. Although we only minorly imbibed, the elevation enhanced the effects, and we woke up foggy headed and with headaches.
.
Number Two: One day of acclimating to 5000′ of elevation gain is insufficient, tackling an additional 3500′ in under 4 hours is really pushing it. This is what led to my increased headache, delerium, nausea, and vomiting. It definitely wasn’t pretty, but we were informed that they’ve seen worse.
.
Number Three: 8.2 miles + 3500′ feet of elevation = 12 miles, which is longer, more strenuous, and in much harsher conditions than we’ve ever hiked in.
.
Number Four: The ominous, blue-black thunder clouds that rolled in across the sizzling desert like an afternoon freight train. They had us running down the rocky slope, past gnarled trees, crisp and burnt from previous lightening storms. Our friend and guardian angel, who spent almost an hour talking to us at the top of Guadalupe Peak, had beaten us down the mountain, but had waited for us at the trail head knowing that (or rather seeing) that I wasn’t feeling good and that the weather was turning bad very quickly. He was such an inspiring, confident, truthful, unassuming, and open man, and we three sat at the top of Texas talking about his life, our lives, and how choices, chance, and some divine intervention can change your path forever… and always for the better.
.
[Note: Dear Guardian Angel, please be in touch - we'd love to hear move about your travels, and thank you properly for looking out for us. Oh, and also, my altitude induced brain lapse snatched your name out of my head. For that too, I apologize.]
